DIY Projects

ORTF: working towards a minimalist approach

November 15, 2024

The near-coincident ORTF stereo pair has a huge following that extends way beyond the remit of the body for which it was invented – the Office de Radiodiffusion-Télévision Française – and long after its demise in 1975. The required 110 degrees angling of the mics and diaphragm centres at 170mm spacing can be set up with any stereo bar. Or you can always use the Schoeps MSTC 74 ORTF mic (or its predecessor, the MSTC 64), where the spacing and angles are built in. And if you don’t have nearly £3k to spare, there’s the similarly designed Superlux S502 at around £100. But, evidently, there are many that find setting the angles and spacings on a stereo bar too fiddly by far (it’s certainly harder to eyeball 110 degrees than a right-angle); many who don’t want to splash out on a dedicated (but inflexible) Schoeps solution; and many who want something of higher quality than the Superlux. As a result there are many dedicated ORTF mounts available for SDC mics. These include offerings by major mic companies, such as DPA’s CXO4000 (which can also mount an XY pair) and, more recently, commercially available 3d-printed options. Ostensibly neat solutions, these dedicated mounts hold the mics directly, and can then be fixed directly to a mic stand: attempts to introduce shock-mounts then become clumsy, typically using Rycote lyres for the whole rig (fixed on a stem protruding from the bottom of the ORTF mic holder, and at 90 degrees to the intended use: a real shot in the foot). Come to think of it, an effective shock-mount or suspension for the Schoeps MSTC 64/74 or Superlux S502 isn’t immediately obvious: a Shure donut perhaps?

ORTF using a standard stereo bar (the small K&M 23550) and the smallest lyre/hoop mounts that I know: the Radius Windshields RAD field edition mounts. Rycote InVision INV 6s would be a larger alternative. The red hoops are a test run of softer 55D shore ones, and will go into production soon in a more subtle dark green. This is a fairly minimalistic ORTF rig with properly set up shock-mounts, but there is no denying that setting angles and spacing is a bit fiddly.

With a 3d-printer to hand, I wondered about a neater solution, using mics mounted correctly in suspensions (as if, for example, using a pair of Rycote InVision INV 6s or, smaller, Radius Windshields RAD field edition mounts on a standard stereo bar), which would then be fixed to a dedicated ORTF bar: the best of both worlds. First off, I designed a simple mount with size slots to fit both Rycote lyres and Radius Windshield hoops. The latter can fit Rycote mounts, but not vice versa. The three slots to each channel allow a bit of flexibility in the placement of the lyres/hoops for different mic models. I added a cable grip at the rear to help isolate the mics from cable-borne vibrations and, for my personal usage, designed this to perfectly grip a Sennheiser MZL cable: in my usage the ORTF mount will be used for MKH 8040 mics with MZLs. Taking a more minimalist route with MZLs made me think a bit more about the suspensions and clips, so I ordered a pair of 19/20mm clips from Radius (much more minimal than their chunky universal clips) and a pair of their 8mm clips (designed to hold the rear of a Sennheiser MZL or a Schoeps Lemo connector). This works fine although there is a mildly disconcerting slope to the mics as a result of the centres of the two clips being slightly different (they didn’t originate as such a pair), but the ORTF mount can be angled freely anyway: for this the bar makes use of a Gravity Quick-Tilt Microphone Adapter (MS QT 1 B).

With the same hoops mounted on the 3d-printed ORTF bar.

And angled a bit to show the construction of the ORTF bar more clearly.

So far so good, but when talking to Simon Davies at Radius about the different centres of the clips, he suggested that I try the two clips individually: that is, use one hoop only (the curved profile giving the new hoops more stability when used singly than the flat lyres from his Rycote days), and suggested I try the 8mm clip only. That was food for thought, so with the ORTF mount I tested the following:

8mm clip with single RAD-2 (21b) hoop x 2 (the control)

8mm clip with single hoop 21b vs two 21b hoops with 19/20mm + 8mm clips

8mm clip with single hoop 21b vs 19/20mm clip with single hoop 21b

8mm clip with single hoop 21b vs 8mm clip with single RAD-1 (21a) hoop

8mm clip with single hoop 21b vs single Rycote lyre 72 shore

8mm clip with single hoop 21b vs no shock-mount (another sort of control!)

With structure-borne noise transmitted from a suspended floor via the stand, the 8mm clip with a single hoop 21b sounded the best: in my test it offers less transmission of the lower frequencies than the 19/20mm hoop (or the latter with two hoops and an 8mm clip in the rear hoop), which I suspect is due to the fact that the 8mm clip is holding the rubber element at the rear of the MZL rather than the mic body direct. I couldn’t really hear/see any difference between the RAD-2 (21b) and RAD-1 (21a) hoops with the single 8mm clip. The single Rycote lyre worked OK on its own with such a light mic, but, connecting to the mic body, again transmitted much more than the 8mm clip. The absence of any shock-mount was definitely much worse than any of the clip/hoop/lyre combinations, as one would expect! So the conclusion is that the single-hoop and 8mm clip is an excellent idea for an ORTF mount for static mics with MZLs (sans windshield: or, indeed, inside a large windshield).

So with these useful tests in mind, I quickly modeled and printed a shorter version of the ORTF mount, this time with just with two slots – for one hoop for each mic. With the RAD hoops set with the concave side forward (orientation of the hoops is irrelevant as long as opposing if in a pair), the MKH 8040 sits nicely forward of any suspension or mount that could have an acoustic effect, and the whole arrangement has a certain minimalistic elegance (though I say it as shouldn’t, as my great grandmother would say).

Here’s the 3d model of the mini ORTF mount/bar.

A view of the single-hoop ORTF mount, this time with the 62D-shore hoops.

The view from the rear: the cable grips are important to both stop transmission of vibrations along the cables, and also to set the angle of the mics. I was a little sceptical that the cable clips would do both, but testing very much shows they do. Obviously differently sized cables than the Sennheiser MZLs used here would need different cable clips in the 3d-printed mount, but that’s part of the beauty of 3d-printing: you can design something that works for you!

It was only yesterday, after having modeled and printed these different ORTF mounts, that I received the 55D test hoops from Radius Windshields, in their ‘Evil Red’ colour. I had suggested the idea to Simon Davies as with Rycote lyres I felt that many end up using too stiff a suspension for a lightweight static mic with no windshields – be that for indoor effects or for music recording. Both Rycote and Radius are primarily geared to production sound markets, and those using mics statically often forget this and that there is a substantial difference between the needs of a mic that is moving – often quite quickly – on a boom-pole or in a pistol grip (think of the momentum involved) and a mic that is completely static, and where the aim of the suspension is to reduce the impact of structure-borne noise transmitted from, or through, the floor and then through the stand. So today I tested the 55D shore hoops on the mini ORTF bar, and they reduced low-frequency transmitted sound significantly, which can be useful on those occasions where you do not want to roll-off the low end of the mic. The MKH 8040 mics with MZLs mounted in 55D hoops (in the eventual production colour of dark green) and the mini ORTF bar (which I will now 3d print in black) will make a very minimalistic, discreet and well-suspended pair that are quick to set to the ORTF configuration on those occasions when I steer away from my favoured MS pairs. Sorted, as they say!

Just for completeness, here’s my comparison of the effectiveness of the 55D hoops vs the 62D hoops:a useful reduction in low-frequency structure-borne noise for those occasions (particularly when recording music: think of organ recordings, or even a standard piano where the lowest note is 27.5Hz) where you don’t want to use a high-pass filter.

Obviously the ORTF mounts shown here are very much tailored to my use, with MKH 8040 mics with MZL cables, but just in case anybody else wants to 3d-print these ORTF bars (free of course!), here is a link to the larger version for two Radius hoops/Rycote lyres per mic and here is the link for the more minimal one for a single Radius hoop. For others with very different mics and different cables, perhaps this DIY project will give a bit of inspiration!

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DIY Projects

3d printing clips for the Radius Windshield hoops

October 27, 2024

At last, mid-side clips integrated into a shock-mount, yet easily swappable with clips for a single mic.

Mid-side clip for 19mm Ø mics

When Radius Windshields launched and produced their RAD shock-mounts one of the unique features was that the mic clips could be unscrewed from the hoops and switched to something different. A radical difference from, say, the Rycote Invision series shock-mounts, where the mic clips and lyres are all one moulding. This has provided scope for Radius to produce dedicated clips for the older MKH 50 etc. mics and, ultimately, to produce dedicated MS clips, doing away with the need to use clips to fix a mic to the shock-mount then a pair of back-to-back clips to attach the second mic to the first. A fiddly faff and also bedeviled by the lack of back-to-back clips with a close spacing, which is preferable for mid-side recording. I have been encouraging Simon Davies at Radius to produce MS clips, and this is now in train using some of the ideas I have proposed. While their nice injection-moulded version is awaited, here is my version for a MS clip to fit their RAD-1 and RAD-2 hoops, and designed for 19mm Ø mics such as the MKH 8000 series and the Rycote SDC series. I should add that Simon Davies at Radius Windshields has supported me in putting this design out into the public domain, which follows similar release of their first prototype for others to 3d print (their initial design was rather different to mine, and their upcoming production version, with a central bolt and a consequently wider spacing as this is tightened). The approach I have taken with this clip is very much a product of many discussions with Simon – via email – on MS clips and other Radius items in development, but also reflective of the company’s refreshingly open engagement with sound recordists.

One of the nice things about the Radius Windshields hoops is that they fit to Rycote shock-mounts such as the InVision INV 7 here, so you can make good use of existing hardware.

CAD drawing, created using Onshape, for the MS clip.

In designing this MS clip I have gone for a spacing of 2.5mm between the mics, which is nice and close but still provides just enough room to allow two MKH 8030 mics to be inserted for a Blumlein pair of two fig 8 mics(the MKH 8030 having a wider front part to the mic). The mics are given enough grip by the springiness of the clips, and this took quite a bit of work to get right: in particular, the internal seemingly circular clips are made up of several different radii so that they hold the 19mm Ø mics properly as the necessarily undersized opening is enlarged by insertion of the mic to give sufficient grip. I have printed them in both PLA and PETG filament (with solid infill) so nothing fancy is required: the PETG filament gives a bit more flexibility and is what I have been using for them mainly. If you are determined you can break them, but, of course, that applies to many a commercial-produced back-to-back clip!

There are two bits of metal hardware that you will need for each clip, which comprise an M3 thin square nut (standard size 5.5mm x 1.8mm), and one of the same M3 socket head button flange screws that Radius use, in this case 12mm long. Of course, you can just use the existing screws that come with your RAD-1 and RAD-2 shock-mounts, so strictly the only extra part you need is the square nut. Stainless steel A2 is best. I got both the nuts and some of the extra screws from Westfield Fasteners (in the UK).

You can go to the file here in Onshape and export in STL, STEP, 3mf etc. file format as required. Note that the clip looks a little skewed or angled when printed: this is deliberate since loading it with two mics opens up the two clips elements a little and consequently, with this built-in angling of the lower circle, the MS clip sits properly square and central (i.e. with the mic centres exactly one above the other) when in use.

MS clip showing vertical alignment when loaded with a pair of mics: a bit of a fiddle to compensate for the skewing effect when the clips are expanded to take the mics, but worth get right.

And, yes, with the MS pair nicely in the Radius Windshield hoops, you can not only retrofit them to InVision shock-mounts or, say, a Rycote Modular windshield, but even, with a bit of ingenuity, get them into a Rycote Nano Shield: with the rather high-set mount for the lyres in the Nano Shield there is not a lot of height to play with (which makes back-to-back clips a very imperfect solution: the top mic ends up right by the basket), so a 3d-printed mounting bar (here’s a link to this too) and mounting the Radius hoops on the underside gives a good workable solution.

While I am at it, here’s another view of the MS clips in Radius hoops being used in a Nano Shield: a pretty dinky MS set up!

Yes you can fit three mics into a RAD-1 and RAD-2 shock-mount!

Triple mic clip for 19mm Ø mics

For something a little more esoteric, I have also created a triple-mic mount to fit the Radius RAD-1 and RAD-2 hoops. Such a triple configuration of mics is something I have used from time to time for MMS (i.e. mid-side but with two different mid mics with different polar patterns – say omni and supercardioid – facing forward so that the polar pattern of the mid mic can be chosen in post) or side-by-side Blumlein with, say, a single supercardioid for recording a singing guitarist, as I demonstrated recently here. Previously I have had to use two pairs of back-to-back clips to connect three mics, which is a fiddle. As I said, a bit esoteric, but that’s the fun with 3d printing: making the commercially unviable possible.

In terms of design, this drew on the mid-side clip, but the loading of the three mics had an impact on the form of the different near circular forms, so even more complex curves were necessary to ensure a snug fit for each mic. I also chose to beef up the thickness of the clip a little, to 3mm, due to fear of the additional forces involved getting three mics into a single clip; and then angled the top interface/mating part by 3 degrees to allow for the change in angle arising from the necessary expansion of the individual clips due to inserting all three mics. In all, nine iterations were required, and doubtless there is room for improvement still: things like best thickness vary a little with filament used. I used a slightly different approach to the fillets, but that is a subtle change. The solid modelling takes a few minutes only, but the printing at finest quality takes an age! The interface, or mating, with the Radius hoops is the same as for the mid-slide clip, so the same size nut and screw are needed. I suspect not many will want to print this model – it is largely presented as showing the potential for very specific mic clips (inc. DIY) offered by the interchangeable design of the Radius hoops – but if you do want to use it, then you can download it (again freely) here from Onshape and choose which file format suits you for export.

And here are the triple clips as 3d printed.

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Audio Gear DIY Projects

If only boom poles could grow legs…

February 17, 2023

Options for mic supports outside: camera tripods, lighting stands and a boom pole.

Field recording can mean mics on a pistol grip for a quick grab of a sound, on a boom pole for something equally quick but harder to reach, or clipped to a bag or hat for some stealthy ambience recording. But much recording outside – and that includes music – requires something more stable and static in the way of support so the mics can stay steady and the recordist can step right way to monitor from afar – not least to avoid capture of rustling, breathing and stomach gurgles from the recordist. Strapping mics to either side of a tree (‘tree ears’) can work, but, of course, there may not be a suitable tree to hand in the right place, so, mostly, it’s a case of taking a stand with you. The trouble with that, of course, is that there are no commercially available stands that have been purpose-built for field recording: so it’s a case of making do with what’s out there. In this post, I’m going to look at the conventional options I have been using in different situations, plus one additional option that I have put together recently and which others may want to try.

Mic stands

Conventional mic stands have little value outside unless in the tamest of environments (think streets, pavements, patios and lawns), being heavy and, with their circular or short fixed tripod bases, have no adaptability to uneven terrain. Not to be sniffed at if you have nothing else – and a short mic stand (the sort you might use for miking a kick drum or a guitar amp) could work fine for recording out in nature with mics near the ground – but not something I’ve found an attractive option.

Lighting stands

Lighting stands are great alternatives to mic stands indoors, not least for getting mics up high for, say, recording an organ, choir or orchestra: obviously they aren’t so good when you want a small footprint, or a short boom arm. They are also useful outdoors, and with a wide range of sizes, can cover a range of uses. When hiking/travelling light I often take a Manfrotto 5002 Nano Plus stand, which folds down to 52cm (it can fit in a rucksack with a blimp), yet extends to 1.97m. It has one slightly extendable foot so has a bit of adaptability to uneven terrain, though nothing very dramatic. It’s the beefiest of the Manfrotto Nano stands (taking a 4kg payload), but I can’t pretend it is rock solid: out in the wind anything above its shortest length is a bit hairy. I tried out the slightly lighter Manfrotto Nano Pole stand in the local camera shop, since it is lauded by some field recordists and looked good on-line, but it was not for me: it was so much flimsier than the 5002 Nano Plus stand and the removable centre column can hardly pass muster as a boom pole. At the taller end of the spectrum, I have a Manfrotto 1004BAC: this is my go to stand for recording acoustic music indoors when not close miking, and I’ve used it outdoors too many a time. It is in a different league than the little Nano Plus stand, rising to 3.66m and carrying up to 9kg (but still only weighing 3kg): it can happily support my chunky stereo bar and, even, my massive windshield for two LDC mics. Outside, though, it has the downside of lighting stands: the legs are designed for a flat surface and the tripod legs only rise a short way up the central pole or column, so it is prone to wobbliness and vibrations especially when extended.

Camera tripods

Many field recordists use camera tripods, and with good reason: the better engineering and, above all, the stability of legs rising much higher take away most of the wobbles and vibrations; many models can collapse far smaller than even the diminutive Nano lighting stands; many models can get mics close to the ground, unlike lighting stands; the legs are adjustable for length and angle, so the tripods can be used pretty much anywhere, even in water; and, of course, they can be used for their primary purpose too (less to carry, say, when hiking to the recording location). Obviously, adaptation is needed to connect mic clips/suspensions, or a stereo bar to the camera head (or remove that), but this is basic stuff: and use of quick-release plates means that you can swap from an audio to camera set up in seconds. There are a few downsides of varying significance: above all, camera tripods lack height, naturally enough being limited to average eye level or a little above; at full height the footprint of the tripod can be a bit large (not really an issue if, say, recording natural ambiences); with no full-height pole/column element, cable routing can be a bit fiddlier; and some tripods can take longer to set up than, say, a Nano Plus stand.

Options for mic support outside, left to right: Gitzo GB3560 carbon-fibre boom pole, Manfrotto 1004 BAC lighting stand, Manfrotto 5002 Nano Plus stand, Manfrotto 055 Pro camera tripod, and, then, the same at two different heights with a boom pole clamped to it (and, no, I don’t have three identical boom poles and three identical 055 tripods…!).

Boom pole with camera tripod

Advocates of the little Manfrotto Nano Pole stand often cite the removable centre column for use as a boom pole as a key attraction, although, as I said above, it’s a very poor substitute for a real boom pole and the stand itself is flimsy too. But the idea has merit: it is so handy having a boom pole in the field (great not just for any dialogue, but also for those hard to reach sounds – once you use a boom pole you will come to appreciate how many such sounds can be recorded, or better recorded, with the reach and the distance from you it provides – or when moving around, sans stand, catching quick close-up sounds) and it’s annoying carrying bits of kit that have very similar – and duplicated – elements to them. So it’s a pity that no manufacturer has scaled up the Nano Pole idea to produce a more stable stand, perhaps with leg geometry more like a camera tripod, with a decent-sized carbon-fibre boom pole at its core (or, better, the ability to incorporate a range of different boom poles from different manufacturers). I’ve looked for tripod legs that could be used to cobble together something with my boom pole, but with no joy. Then I had the idea (doubtless not the first or the last to do so) of mounting the boom pole to a camera tripod head with the bottom of the pole resting on the ground (crucial for giving stability), essentially making a four-legged stand. Looking around, the nearest thing I found to this out there is a tripod pole bracket made by Hague Camera Supports for attaching an aerial camera mast to a camera or video tripod: rather too massive and laborious for the sort of slick set up I had in mind, but it was reassuring to find someone thinking on similar lines. So to my rather smaller and quicker to use solution: a quick-release 30mm rod clamp (made by Camvate) fixed by two 1/4″ screws (i.e. ensuring no rotation) to an Arca-style quick-release plate. Both the plate and the clamp can be fixed to the tripod and the boom pole in seconds, and the pole can be set vertically or at an angle, with its bottom end firmly planted on the ground. It can be used with any of my Arca-fitted tripods – from the reasonably substantially Manfrotto 055 pro with large ball head, down to my little Benro travel tripod. And the advantage? Well I can use the tripod alone for mic support when convenient; I can use the boom pole alone when useful; and I can combine the two in seconds to get a far more stable tall stand than my current most substantial light stand (indeed, at 4m long, taller than my Manfrotto 1004BAC) with completely adjustable legs. It was a very blowy day today, so I was able to confirm stability in fairly extreme conditions (using Rycote Nano Shields with fur as windshields): at the 1.97m height of the Manfrotto 5002 Nano Plus stand it was completely stable, while the Manfrotto 1004BAC had a significant wobble, and the Nano Plus stand was worse still (both given extra stability by a heavy camera bag hung off them); and at the full 3.66m height of the 1004BAC the boom pole set up did wobble a bit, but less so than the lighting stand and, crucially, vibrations/wobbles calmed down much more quickly. Obviously, as would be expected, the advantage afforded by the taller legs of a camera tripod vs those of a lighting stand diminishes as the boom pole gets towards its maximum of 4m and also as the boom pole sections reduce, but it was interesting to see that the lighting stand didn’t out perform it at such height. For £30 for the rod clamp (and others may find/need different and better solutions for their boom pole), I have another flexible set-up to add to the choices when I take my sound gear out into the wilds, especially when I know the terrain won’t suit a lighting stand.

Top left, Camvate 30mm rod clamp; bottom left, the rod clamp (given a little internal lining to be gentler on my carbon-fibre boom pole) screwed to an Arca-style quick-release plate; and right, the boom pole then attached via these to the ball head of a camera tripod.

And outside in high wind with the boom pole fully extended (about 4m). If setting up for longer in such wind I’d have hung my sound bag off the tripod for a bit more low-down weight.

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Audio Gear DIY Projects

Mid-side with AKG CK94

May 25, 2021

AKG CK94 (top) and CK93 (bottom) in Rode Mk1 blimp suspension

I’ve had one of the AKG Blueline mics for years. This has the CK93 capsule, which is an excellent mid-price hypercardioid SDC mic that has proved great for booming indoor (and, on occasion, outdoor) dialogue. I have also used it for music recording where I needed a narrower polar pattern than cardioid. It is leagues above my Oktava MK012 hypercardioid – so beloved by indie filmmakers – in terms of build quality, handling noise, and features (having low-cut and attenuation switches).

From time to time I’ve wondered about the other interchangeable capsules in the Blueline range and, above all, about the CK94 – the figure of eight capsule. Of course LDC multi-pattern mics include a fig 8 polar pattern and, paired with another mic, this allows mid-side recording, which I have done many a time. And, as I have posted, with a massive DIY blimp I have even got such an LDC pair outside for field recording. That said, it would be useful and, for most uses, more practical to have a compact SDC mid-side pair. The standard for field-recording pros is the Sennheiser MKH30, which, while excellent and with the advantage of humidity-beating RF technology, has the distinct disadvantage of cost: it has a street price of around £1500, and even used ones seem rare below £1000. Add another Sennheiser MKH mic (say an MKH40) and wind protection to fit and you will need to spend £3000 or more. Unlike other polar patterns, SDC fig 8s are rare, and there are few more affordable ones: ignoring the clunky pseudo fig 8s made by Oktava and Kortwich (made using two cardioids mounted back-to-back, giving a T-shaped mic), the only affordable true single -diaphragm fig 8 other than the AKG CK94 is the Ambient ATE208 Emesser. The latter, however, has a lot of bass roll-off due to it being tailored to match the off-axis response of a shotgun mic (its intended partner). Recently, boutique Taiwanese mic-maker B9Audio has produced the CM180, but it is only available direct from the maker: so this means significant shipping and duty costs need to be added to the US$749 price. Reviews are also thin on the ground to say the least.

So, with all this in mind, the AKG CK94 remains the most viable affordable SDC fig 8 for general usage (i.e. music as well as film sound). Although now out of production (AKG/Harman/Samsung appear to be phasing out the whole Blueline family and the CK94 was the first to be discontinued), at the time of writing it is just possible to find one or two new examples for sale: with the SE 300B amplifier/mic body, street price is around £600. But I’ve been keeping my eye on the used market, and was please to spot one on the Saturn Sound website (where there is a list for a grand closing down sale of mics – with some very rare examples), and – together with the SE300B amplifier/mic body – the other day I became the owner of a very good condition example: indeed, during a pre-sales check, Ashley Styles of Saturn Sound thought the capsule a bit noisy and replaced it with one he still had. All this, plus delivery in person (he has retired not so far away), for a remarkably affordable £200.

I had no concerns about the CK94 for music or louder effects recording, but, with 22dBA self-noise (a long way from the MKH30’s 13dBA) my hopes were low for recording quieter ambiences. So I was surprised how good it sounded during an initial test recording the ambient noise in the garden (in a village in rural Norfolk). You can have listen here:

I was expecting something much noisier.

In terms of rigging it up for field recording, I purchased a couple of the older style (i.e. lower profile) back-to-back clips made by Rycote (ref. no. 048460), which, unlike the new fit-any-mic clips Rycote make for MS pairs, neatly fit into a Rode Mk1 blimp and have lugs to attach to the suspension bands: the mics sit centrally and with a healthy blimp diameter of 100mm there is still plenty of air space around both mics. The CK94 has to project further forward given the location of its capsule (the centres of the two capsules should align, of course). I’ve added a DIY conn box equivalent (a clamp for the two thin cables – Sommer Cicada – that go from the mics to the DIY boompole-top XLR holder) to avoid the two heavier cables entering the blimp, so I’m there with a very nice sounding SDC mid-side rig for a very modest outlay. And, of course, I can use the AKG CK94 with mid-mics other than the hypercardioid CK93: for example, my Rode NT55 mics give me cardioid and omni mid-mic options. I’ll post other recordings – including music – with the CK94-based mid-side rig in due course.

With blimp on, and showing the double XLR holder at the top of the boompole

And a close-up of the DIY double XLR holder at the top of the boompole

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Camera Gear DIY Projects

This camera is not for turning…

March 25, 2021

Compact follow-focus rig with an anti-twist Arca-type plate.

The best ideas for inventions are those that turn out to have already been thought of and produced. OK, that means you can’t make your fortune, but odds are you wouldn’t make the leap from an idea hatched in the shower to a production line anyway: and, anyway, you can go out and buy the thing with none of the hassle of being the next James Dyson. This happened to me with my genius solution to feeling all tangled up and constrained by sleeping bags when camping: just imagine if the sleeping bag had separate legs and arms? Well, as you probably know but I didn’t, you can buy these already…

To the case in hand, I’ve long been frustrated how stills cameras rotate all too easily on tripods, fixed (in the loosest sense of the word) by a single 1/4″ screw and lacking the additional pin hole found on camcorders. With stills cameras then moving into video and, for cinematic focusing, then needing follow focuses, the need for anti-rotation got all the more compelling. While camera companies vie about 4k and 8k, or 10-bit and raw on mirrorless cameras, nobody seems remotely bothered to drill a hole in the base to allow a second pin to stop rotation. An L-bracket or a cage can sometimes solve the problem, but, unless you need one, they are clunky additions, making access to controls and connections much harder and losing the carefully designed ergonomics of the camera. Also, many L-brackets and cages are just not rigid enough or not fixed to the camera well enough. With my compact – and cageless – follow-focus rig for my Lumix G9 I’ve found the old problem rearing its head, with the camera sometimes gradually rotating away from the follow focus to the point that, eventually, the gear disengages. So my genius ‘invention’? Well, simply a small Arca-style plate with a ridge at the front, forming a snug fit against the front of the camera: with the G9’s flip screen there is no value in a ridge or lip at the rear. Visions of finding someone who could mill one for me proved unnecessary since, as you will have guessed, the idea has already been thought of. Oddly, though, I haven’t simply missed something common, as such plates are incredibly obscure. Arca themselves sell an anti-twist plate (the blandly named ‘Kameraplatte 40mm’) as do Really Right Stuff (the equally unrevealingly named ‘B9 Multi-use bidirectional plate’), but both are extremely pricey for a small bit of metal with a lip (€63 and $49 respectively), need an allen key to tighten, and are hard to find in the UK. And then I came across the plates made by the Colorado Tripod Company in the USA: a perfectly sized 40mm plate (they do 60mm and 85mm-long versions too) with a bolted-on lip, and, unbelievably (since their well-made kit isn’t generally cheap), available for $10 (in my case £9 on Amazon UK). It turned up today, and is a supremely well-engineered plate, and even includes miniature bubble levels: you can tighten it with fingers or a coin. I might not have made my fortune with a new invention, but it hasn’t cost me a fortune either: I just wish I’d realized, and hunted for, the solution to camera twisting before.

UPDATE 18.6.2021. Well, sadly my optimism about the off-the-peg anti-twist plate wasn’t entirely merited: after a month or so in use I found the plate still undoing from time to time: not as badly as before, but enough to be frustrating. The reason for this is evidently the slot (instead of a hole) for the screw, also common to the more expensive offerings from Arca and Really Right Stuff, which, while designed to allow fitting of the plate to different cameras, allows the screw to loosen when used with a follow-focus. Doubtless, the designers didn’t have that in mind. What is needed, evidently, is a plate with a hole rather than a slot for the screw, which, of course, means a plate designed perfectly for the camera body. So, after all, it was necessary to DIY something: I simply added an aluminium bar at exactly the right point (with some very careful sub-millimetre measurements) to an existing Arca plate and – voilà – at last I have got there: in use it has proved reliably rigid.

Colorado Tripod Company anti-twist Arca-type quick-release plate with lip at the front or rear. The detachable front/rear part with the lip (and bubble levels) is bolted on from below and further aligned by two pins that slide into the main part of the plate. Sadly, like any such lipped plate with slot for the screw (which allows it to fit many different cameras), it will still loosen under the duress of a follow-focus.

My modified Arca-style plate with the screw through a hole and an aluminium bar bolted on so as to perfectly abut the front of a Lumix G9. Not pretty, perhaps, but at last rock solid with a follow-focus.

And here’s the DIY-modified plate on the camera. I’ll probably paint the aluminium addition black in due course, but, meanwhile, it is clearer for these photos.

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